BY ADAM HURLY
Exfoliation is one-third of the basic skincare regimen. Clearing out dead skin is a key to a clear complexion and uniform skin tone. But over-exfoliation can be a big problem. If you want to be maximally handsome, you've got to exfoliate, but it’s also a very easy process to take too far and wind up looking like you're blushing for a week straight.
So that's the question: How much should somebody exfoliate? Because going overboard comes with some pretty severe, painful consequences: “Over exfoliation may lead to redness, irritation, sensitivity, and flaking,” warns board-certified dermatologist Dr. Ryan Turner, of Turner Dermatology in NYC. And, unfortunately, there's no single answer for how much is too much: “Exfoliating is not one size fits all. Skin turnover and sensitivities vary from person to person." Turner points out that it's not even enough to know how often someone is exfoliating, because products differ so much in strength. Finding this balance—the frequency that works for you, with the product that works best—is something you’ve got to figure out for yourself.
But maybe we can nudge you in the right direction—with Dr. Turner’s help.
The two types of exfoliation
First, there are chemical exfoliants, which can gently dissolve dead skin cells while also accelerating cellular turnover in the skin. (This promotes quick turnover of hyperpigmentation—dark spots—and shrinks the appearance of pores).
Secondly, there are physical scrubs, which buff away dull, dead skin cells, only to encourage the healthier, brighter ones to surface. This keeps skin smooth and also plays a part in preventing pore clogging. Exfoliating scrubs are also a terrific way to remove dead skin cells prior to a shave, to prevent razor drag and ingrown hairs.
Turner prefers chemical exfoliants for his patients. “Chemical exfoliants involve little to no rubbing and are less disruptive to the skin barrier than harsh physical scrubbers,” says Turner. “Chemical exfoliants that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs, like lactic acid) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs, like salicylic acid) for example, are also great for acne-prone skin and hyperpigmentation.”
But that’s no knock on physical scrubs. Anyone who has ever used a gritty callus removerknows the benefits of buffing away dead, unsightly skin. The resulting smoothness feels incredible. Of course, with your face, you are dealing with much more sensitive, finicky skin. (When is the last time you had a volcano zit on the ball of your foot, or cared about how quickly a tiny cut healed on your ankle?)
How much exfoliation is too much?
Since the rules of over-exfoliation vary from one person to the next, it's a “you know it when you see it” type of thing. Or, as Turner puts it, “When a person over-exfoliates, the skin can become red, sensitive, and have a burning sensation.” Hard to miss!
It’s a fairly easy mistake to avoid, too, if you approach exfoliation carefully. First of all, do your research on any ingredients and then do a spot check on your skin: apply a small amount of any chemical exfoliant to your inner arm or the nape of your neck. Wait a couple days to gauge whether or not you react poorly. Start with lower-grade chemical formulas, and begin with a once or twice weekly application. Don’t increase the frequency, volume, or potency without following similar spot checks.
With physical scrubs, choose a gentler texture (read on for some suggestions), and start with a once-weekly approach. You can work your way up to twice weekly after you know your skin can tolerate it.
At any sign of over exfoliation, sideline the product until your skin can fully recover. (And consider replacing the product if you think its formula is to blame—but not if your excessive use is the actual culprit).
“When this happens it is best to put your exfoliation routine on pause and moisturize the skin to help calm the it and replenish the skin barrier,” Turner says. “Restarting with lower percentage chemical exfoliants or decreasing the frequency of your exfoliation can help to get your skin back on track.
Lastly, consider how your exfoliation is working with other potentially-irritating ingredients. “Oftentimes the combined use of retinoids and chemical exfoliants can increase irritation of the skin,” says Turner.
How to recover from over-exfoliation
If you've turned yourself medium-rare, Turner says to switch to a gentle, non-acidic cleanser, and to use a thin layer of a skin protectant to help calm the irritation.
“Recovery may take up to four weeks to allow the skin to complete a renewal cycle," Turner says. "Also, decrease the frequency of shaving to reduce friction on the face and to speed up the recovery process.”
The best exfoliating products
Dr. Turner suggests finding chemical exfoliants with gentler, steadier approaches (applied two or three times a week for a consistent balance, versus a once-a-week reset from a stronger product). Carefully working in this toner and serum is a great place to start.
As for physical scrubs, he says to find something with a fine texture. “Avoid ingredients that cause too much friction,” he adds. “I recommend exfoliants with a natural base of rice powder or jojoba beads. They are effective but less abrasive on the skin.”
