To say I knew about the benefits of using squalane before I worked in beauty would be a fib. The skincare market boom and work-related research are why ingredients like hyaluronic acid, retinol, niacinamide, and squalane are now part of my routine. With that said, adding new items to our evolving skincare rotation has never been easier. However, understanding how these super ingredients work alone and with other products can present a challenge, even if you're an avid researcher.
If you've researched the oil, you've likely noticed that there are two different spellings for the rich emollient: squalane and squalene. In essence, the two vowels make a difference in shelf life and the oil's overall efficiency (more on that later). To grasp a better understanding of squalane, we spoke to Ryan Turner, MD, founder of Turner Dermatology, Marie Hayag, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of 5th Avenue Aesthetics, and Cheryl Woodman, scientist, skincare formulator, and founder of Honesty For Your Skin to get details on the benefits of squalene.
What Is Squalane?
Before we learn about the benefits of this rich emollient, let's discuss how the vowels a and e make a difference in their chemical makeup. "Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene," Turner tells Byrdie. "[It is] a lipid (or fat) that is naturally found in the skin and secreted by the sebaceous (oil) glands. Squalene is not very stable for use in skincare products, so squalane is used for its longer shelf life." The use of this emollient in the beauty industry has long been controversial due to the fact that squalane found in cosmetics, not to be confused with squalene, was sourced from shark liver. However, most companies are now using plant-based forms of squalane in their products. "Squalane can be naturally sourced from plants, for example, olives and sugar cane," says Turner.
Benefits of Squalane for Skin
"Squalane is great for softening or smoothing the skin, as it may help to support the natural outer barrier of the skin," says Turner. "It is a good option for dry and irritated skin, as it has been shown to help calm redness and inflammation." He always recommends squalane for those with dry or and sensitive skin. "Squalane is non-comedogenic, so it can be used for all skin types. Those with dry, irritated, or sensitive skin will see the most effect from squalane oil, but we can all benefit from this superstar skincare ingredient."
Since squalane is a compound that we naturally produce, Hayag says the compound doesn't just hydrate but is essential for our skin barrier. "This substance is known for locking in hydration by creating a protective barrier on the skin's surface," she explains.
"It is most beneficial for those with dry or mature skin because of its great moisturizing and emollient properties," she says. "It is also wonderful for people exposed to environmental factors such as sunburn, where the skin tends to lose moisture. Despite popular belief, people with oily acne-prone skin would benefit greatly from using squalane oil. Since it mimics what we naturally produce, introducing squalane oil can help regulate the amount of sebum the body makes."
Side Effects of Squalane
Side effects from using squalane aren't common. However, if you have an adverse reaction, be sure to consult with your doctor. Since squalane isn't a reactive ingredient, Woodman says it will typically play nice with other products.
"If squalane is the main or only active in a face oil, there typically will be no issues mixing it into a routine that contains cosmeceutical-strength skincare," Woodman tells Byrdie. For that reason, squalane, she says, makes a great base for actives like retinol and niacinamide. "Niacinamide, in particular, is a great pairing, as both help to repair and promote a healthy, happy skin barrier."
How to Use Squalane
"One of the most sustainable ways to add squalane to your skincare routine is to look for a 100% plant-based oil, then use a few drops daily on your skin," says Turner. Once you find your squalane product of choice, Turner says you can add a few drops to your favorite moisturizer. You can also use it before applying retinol to cut down on irritation. "As a dermatologist, I often recommend that sensitive-skin patients, or those initiating use of a retinoid, use a moisturizer first and then apply the retinol/retinoid," Turner explains. "This can decrease the immediate contact of the retinol with the skin and slow its penetration, decreasing irritability. In addition, squalane has anti-inflammatory properties in and of itself that can help decrease irritation."
When using oils, you may have noticed that they sometimes seem to sit on the skin without fully absorbing. To combat this, Woodman recommends what she calls the oil sandwich. "Face oils can sometimes feel like they're [sitting] on top of [the] skin—a sign that they're not absorbing deeply." She notes that this can prevent the skin from gaining the benefits from any active ingredients applied with oil, like squalane.
"Creams and moisturizers contain actives, which help oils sink into skin to be most effective," she explains. So layering a moisturizer after applying squalane can ensure that all of the good stuff sinks in. "This pulls a face oil like squalane deeper into the skin for long-lasting benefits," Woodman says.
