It's been around for centuries, but there's a reason dermatologists still recommend bentonite clay for oily and acne-prone skin.
Before there were benzoyl peroxide creams and salicylic acid-spiked cleansers to help pimples wither away, there was bentonite clay. This earthy powder, named after Fort Benton, Wyoming, which boasts some of the world's largest deposits of the stuff, is beloved for its abilities to target impurities in your skin and weed them out.
You don't have to look hard to find it. Bentonite clay is something you can get at your local drugstore, beauty supply, or health food shop. It often comes in powder form, housed in unfussy packaging: a simple plastic jar with a twist-off cap or a resealable bag.
Perhaps the best-known kind of bentonite clay comes from the brand Aztec Secret. You've likely seen the label: it's orange and green, with a giant Aztec pyramid positioned front and center. "World's most powerful facial," the label boasts. "Feel your face pulsate," it reads when you turn it over, alluding to the tightening feel you get after you apply it.
Though it's relatively easy to find in powder form, bentonite clay can also pop up in product formulations aimed at treating a perpetually shiny T-zone or skin vexed by breakouts. That's what it's best at: purging pores of dirt, excess sebum, and those itty-bitty particles of pollution your skin comes into contact with daily. It's also great for your scalp (which is, after all, skin) and dirty hair dealing with product buildup.
But how does it work? And is there really solid science underpinning its big skin-clarifying promises? We asked dermatologists and cosmetic chemists to break down this ingredient and how to incorporate it into a routine for the best results.
What is bentonite clay and how does it work?
Bentonite clay is a natural, mud-like substance formed from volcanic ash believed to have formed about 2.6 million years ago. It's also known as Montmorillonite clay, named after the region it's found in France.
As a skin-care ingredient, bentonite clay is legendary in face masks but also appears in cleansers and scrubs – that's for good reason. "Bentonite clay is so absorbent, it's like a sponge that binds to oil and dirt on the skin's surface," explains New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD.
Bentonite clay carries a negative electrical charge that attracts impurities. When it makes contact with your skin, the clay undergoes a textural change. "It thickens and forms a gel matrix to trap oil and leftover makeup so that they can be washed off easily with water," cosmetic chemist Ginger King tells Allure.
Also worth noting: If you Google "bentonite clay," two different forms of it will pop up. "Calcium bentonite clay is what you find in skin care because it's gentle and rich in the mineral calcium, which helps to improve cell turnover, boost moisture retention, and maintain an intact skin barrier," says King.
Sodium bentonite clay is not the same thing – it's used as a sealant to prevent leaks in lakes and ponds. If you're shopping for bentonite clay to use on your skin, be sure you're getting the calcium kind.
How does bentonite clay benefit skin?
Because bentonite clay pulls off a brilliant vanishing act on grease and other nasties, it's a good option for folks with oily or acne-prone skin. "bentonite clay helps to control sebum production, creates a matte finish, and minimizes the look of prominent pores," explains New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Ryan Turner, MD. Its antioxidant minerals (known as phyllosilicates) and anti-inflammatory properties calm angry breakouts, Dr. Turner adds. Also cool: it temporarily tightens pores, leaving skin feeling like it's been shrink-wrapped.
One of the words people like to throw around when they're talking about bentonite clay is "detoxifying," but it doesn't actually do that, says Dr. Zeichner. "While it has absorbent properties and can help to remove impurities, dirt, and particulate matter that accumulate on the skin during the day, bentonite clay does not filter toxins."
Your skin isn't a great toxin-purging agent anyway. "The only detoxifying organs in the body are the liver and kidneys," Zeichner explains.
How should you use bentonite clay in your beauty routine?
In lieu of a spa facial, you can purchase straight-up bentonite clay powder and create your own mask. Dr. Zeichner is a fan of the classic Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay, and for good reason. "The formula is free of preservatives, making it a great option for people with sensitive skin," he explains. Another bonus? It's pretty inexpensive — a two-pound jar costs under $20. Sky Organics sells the stuff in a four-ounce jar if you want to save space in your bathroom cabinet.
If you read the instructions on some of these bentonite powders, they may tell you to avoid prepping the stuff in a metal bowl so as to not compromise the integrity of the compound. But as cosmetic chemist Randy Schueller previously told Allure, it's not that big of a deal. "A number of websites say that contact with metal will cause the clay to become less effective or lose its 'magnetic charge,'" he explained. "This is simply not true. Bentonite clay contains salts that create an ionic charge when dissolved in water, but metal has no effect on this."
When you're ready, in a bowl, mix one-part clay powder with one-part water or apple cider vinegar to create a paste. "Bentonite clay has an alkaline pH," King says. "And because of that, it's better to use apple cider vinegar to help neutralize the alkalinity so the mixture is milder. It also keeps the skin's pH at a normal 5.5."
There are plenty of pre-mixed bentonite clay masks available, too, which Dr. Turner argues is the best way to utilize this hero ingredient. "Pre-mixed products have more consistent formulas and may offer more reliable results," he says. Many are also spiked with ingredients such as aloe juice and glycerin that replenish hydration or kaolin clay for gentle exfoliation. Plus, from a purity standpoint, "buying from a reputable skin-care brand takes the guesswork out of the quality of the bentonite clay," adds Dr. Turner.
He suggests a few: Kiehl's Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Mask, Cetaphil Dermacontrol Purifying Clay Mask, and the SkinCeuticals Clarifying Clay Mask. All of these also double as spot treatments. "Dab them on individual acne cysts or breakouts rather than all over the face," advises Dr. Turner. "These products can even be used on the body – for example, to treat shoulder or chest acne."
Meanwhile, Dr. Zeichner recommends the Simple Purifying Pink Clay Mask, which additionally includes calamine to soothe. That one is pretty hard to find, but you can also try the M-61 PowerSpot Mask.
How often you use it comes down to your skin type and concerns. "If you're using bentonite clay as part of an anti-acne regimen, you can apply it two to three times a week," says Dr. Turner. "For those with sensitive skin, use once a week and then work your way up if there's no irritation."
Note: A bentonite clay mask shouldn't be left on your skin for so long that it hardens and flakes. "While wet, the bentonite clay starts to calm and soak up oil," explains Dr. Zeichner. "But, as it dries on the skin, the initial soothing and absorbing effects can eventually lead to dehydration and irritation." Stick to the 10 to 20 minutes recommended by most brands and, after rinsing with water, Dr. Turner says you should use a gentle cleanser to whisk away any pore-clogging dirt once and for all.
What about using bentonite clay for hair?
When it comes to shinier, healthier-looking hair, bentonite clay may not be the first thing that springs to mind, but it could be the missing part of the equation. "In the same way that bentonite clay clarifies the skin on the face, it can also exfoliate and deep cleanse the scalp," Dr. Turner explains. "Its anti-inflammatory properties may help with some scalp dermatitis and flaking. Plus, its high mineral content conditions the scalp skin and hair follicles."
He adds that to get the most benefit, section your hair and apply the bentonite clay/water mixture to the scalp, pulling it through to the ends. Then leave the mask to sit for 20 minutes.
Bentonite clay can also be used as a substitute for clarifying shampoos to draw out residue and buildup. "Clarifying shampoos are made with chelating agents like EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA to remove excess oil and unnecessary ingredients from your hair and scalp," says King. "There's nothing wrong with chelating ingredients for the hair but there are biodegradability issues so people shy away from them. A bentonite clay treatment could be considered a good alternative."
Another place bentonite clay crops up is in styling products. "It's great for adding texture and hold to the hair," says King. "You're better off buying a commercially-made product but you could add a small amount of loose bentonite clay powder to an existing styling paste for a similar effect."
Are there any risks associated with using bentonite clay topically?
If you go the DIY route, be sure to buy your clay from trusted companies. Reason being: There are no regulations from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) on where bentonite clay is sourced and some may contain toxic heavy metals such as lead, says King. Check out the FDA's website, too, as it calls out brands that are potentially harmful. "Bentonite clay also contains aluminum, which clean beauty purists may choose to avoid in their skin care," adds Dr. Turner.
That said, all of the experts we spoke to agree that bentonite clay is generally well-tolerated. Dr. Turner still recommends patch-testing by applying a little on your inner forearm before using it on your face and, if irritation occurs, discontinue use.
There's just one catch: bentonite clay can be a moisture-zapper. To minimize its drying effects, Dr. Zeichner says a light moisturizer, applied straight afterward, should do the trick. Dr. Turner warns not to use bentonite clay in tandem with products that speed up cell turnover or you'll experience redness and sensitivity. "On the day that you mask, avoid the use of physical exfoliants as they may cause micro-tears in the skin," he explains. "Also steer clear of acids or retinoids to help prevent irritation."
