Here’s how to get the most hydration for your buck.
By Melanie Rud
Reviewed by Fatima Fahs, MD
We’ll get straight to the point: The benefits of hyaluronic acid are undeniable, so if it’s not yet part of your skin care routine, you’re missing out. And if you’re a little intimidated by the word “acid,” don’t worry; unlike alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids, hyaluronic acid isn’t a chemical exfoliant. Rather, it’s a (very effective) hydrating ingredient—one that can be combined with a variety of other actives and is safe and effective for pretty much everyone.
In short, there’s a reason it's beloved by dermatologists and you really can’t go wrong by using it. That said, there are definitely ways to maximize its moisturizing potential. Here, SELF asked experts to explain what hyaluronic acid is, how it can improve your skin health, and the best ways to incorporate it into your routine.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid (or HA, as the cool kids call it) is a type of sugar that your body makes naturally: “It’s a long-chain carbohydrate present in our body and our skin,” Emily Newsom, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center, tells SELF. It’s also present in lots of nooks and crannies—like between muscle fibers, in connective tissue, and in the fluid-filled sacs lubricating and cushioning your joints—but the largest concentration of HA is found in the skin.1
It’s also the active ingredient in injectable dermal fillers like Restylane and Juvéderm because of its innate plumping abilities, which translate when it’s applied topically via over-the-counter skin care products, too. “Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it attracts water to and retains it in the skin,” Ryan Turner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, tells SELF.1 (And a lot of H2O at that: Hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.)2 Think of it like a sponge; as it pulls in moisture and absorbs it, it puffs up, helping to both hydrate and plump the skin. As a result, your complexion looks smoother and more vibrant, and fine lines may be less noticeable, Dr. Turner says.
What are the main benefits of hyaluronic acid?
We just touched on the big one—keeping skin seriously hydrated. Its other claim to fame is that, despite these hardcore moisturizing effects, hyaluronic acid is still a very lightweight ingredient that doesn’t feel heavy or greasy. That’s part of the reason why anyone and everyone can—and should—consider using it, according to the experts we consulted.
Hyaluronic acid products are great for pretty much every skin type, Dr. Newsom says, adding that it can be particularly beneficial for folks with acne-prone or combination skin (oily in some parts; dry in others) who are looking for a highly moisturizing product that isn’t too thick or occlusive (pore-clogging). Still, because it attracts water, it can be helpful for dry skin, too, particularly when combined with thicker moisturizers (like eye creams), she says.
Research also shows that HA can minimize the dryness that often comes with topical retinoids.3 And it may also play an important role in wound healing: One review found that it has antioxidant properties, mitigates inflammation, and can even play a role in stimulating collagen production.
Another major perk of hyaluronic acid is that it’s already in your body, so the chances of your face freaking out after using it are pretty low—even if you have sensitive skin, according to Dr. Turner.5 Of course, it’s always possible that other ingredients in HA products could trigger an allergic reaction or irritation, but know that hyaluronic acid itself is unlikely to cause adverse effects, he says. Finally, there’s no need to be worried about mixing and matching your HA with other actives, because it gets along well with everyone. “Think of it as the Switzerland of skin care—it essentially can be used with any other ingredient,” Dr. Turner says. In other words, it can easily be worked into any existing routine. To that point…
How to use hyaluronic acid in your skin care routine
In case we haven’t hammered this home: Hyaluronic acid is best used for hydration. It’s not surprising, then, that it’s a common ingredient in moisturizers. But you can also find it in hyaluronic acid serums (which can help you add even more hydration when layered with other skin care products) and facial mists. FYI, you might also see it listed as sodium hyaluronate (the sodium salt form) or potassium hyaluronate (the potassium salt form).
It also bears mentioning that not all topical hyaluronic acids are the same: Hyaluronic acid can have a high, medium, or low molecular weight, and research suggests that these versions have slightly different effects.6 While low- and medium-molecular-weight HAs do the classic hyaluronic acid job of attracting and binding water, forms with a higher molecular weight tend to have a more occlusive effect and sit on top of the skin, sealing in that hydration. In practice though, Dr. Newsom says this formulation nuance isn’t really something you should spend your time worrying about.
What does matter is how and when you use HA in your routine. “To make the most out of your hyaluronic acid product, be sure to apply it after cleansing while your skin is still slightly damp,” advises Dr. Turner. Why? “That additional skin moisture will give it even more water to hold onto and maximize the hydrating effects of hyaluronic acid,” he explains. Also important: If you’re applying a thicker cream or lotion as well, make sure to layer any HA products underneath those rich moisturizers, particularly if they contain occlusives, such as petrolatum or heavy oils. These ingredients can potentially create a barrier that’ll prevent the hyaluronic acid from working as effectively; use them after HA to help seal in moisture, he advises.
