Acne is nobody’s BFF. In fact, it’s the enemy we want to plunge away into the far, far abyss.
But, we can’t help it sometimes — we pop our pimples, despite dermatologist’s firm advisories to not do that. The worst part? You’ll succumb to an unwanted scar that, depending on the severity of the acne, can last a long while.
“The success of any treatment for acne scars really depends on the severity of the scarring,” Jennifer Chwalek, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Unionderm and a fellowship-trained, board-certified dermatologic surgeon, told the New York Post. “The earlier treatment is initiated for acne (as well as scarring) the easier it is to treat.”
The main takeaway? Get your acne under control before it leads to scarring. (Related: Best acne body washes and best acne spot treatments).
“For mild pigmentary changes and/or mild textural changes, it is possible to permanently treat and/or improve the scarring (assuming the acne is controlled; otherwise it just creates more scarring),” Dr. Chwalek adds. “As scars become deeper (i.e. icepick) and more severe, it becomes harder to sometimes permanently remove them, though we can often improve the appearance.”
Ahead, the New York Post Shopping team turned to a handful of board-certified dermatologists and certified skincare experts who hand-picked the 14 best acne scar treatments to pick up. In addition, we put together an in-depth FAQ section to answer your acne-abounding questions.
La-Roche Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Topical Retinoid for Acne
“The Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% is a retinoid available over the counter that can work to produce collagen and improve acne scars,” Ryan Turner, MD, board-certified dermatologist who practices cosmetic dermatology, surgical dermatology and laser surgery, told The Post.
More, this formulation has racked up more than 6,000 positive reviews on Amazon alone and is both fragrance-free and oil-free to help prevent irritation, especially for sensitive skin.
SkinCeuticals Advanced Scar Control
“This powerful gel uses silicone as its active ingredient to help improve acne scarring,” Rahi Sarbaziha, MD, Beverly Hills-based integrative aesthetics doctor, told The Post. “Proven to help seal scars, silicone, helps restore the skin barrier for an even skin texture.
And, though a splurge, this product helps treat both new and recent scars — ideal if you’ve been undergoing acne flare-ups for a while.
Proactiv Post Acne Scar Gel
“Bakuchiol is featured in this acne scar gel because it is a plant-derived alternative to retinol that improves collagen production without being irritating,” Brendan Camp, MD, skincare expert who’s double board-certified in dermatology and dermatopathology and sees patients at MDCS Dermatology: Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery, explained to The Post, in recommending the product.
Not only is Proactiv a household name (as far as helping to treat acne is concerned) but this travel-friendly tube can be used daily, if needed, and also helps treat new and old scars.
Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%
“The Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid 5% is a combination therapy that, in addition to treating hyperpigmentation and redness with the properties of tranexamic acid, contains kojic acid and arbutin to further target hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Turner explains.
Aesthetically pleasing bottle aside, this formulation is an excellent beauty buy at less than $25 but it checks off plenty of our boxes as well: it’s paraben-free, cruelty free, gluten-free and said to be suitable for plenty of skin types.
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
“This acid booster uses azelaic acid to help even out skin tone and appearance,” Dr. Sarbaziha notes. “This is a great choice for patients looking to reduce hyperpigmentation and light post acne marks.”
This formulation has a lightweight, oil-free and creamy gel texture as well, offering your scars some additional moisturizing that it so craves.
Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24 Brightening Serum
“Vitamin C, which has antioxidant properties, peptides, which may improve collagen production and niacinamide, a vitamin B derivative that improves hydration and calms skin, are all featured in this brightening serum,” Dr. Camp highlights.
More, this serum has a subtle citrus scent, an ultra-lightweight feel and doesn’t have a greasy or sticky residue.
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM
“CeraVe PM contains niacinamide to help reduce PIE and PIH,” Turner says. “The advantage of this product is the hydrating properties from the ingredients ceramides and hyaluronic acid to help restore the skin barrier.”
This product remains one of our most-used (even for basic skincare use; not merely for acne scars) and hails from one of the best skincare brands we reviewed.
ISDIN Melatonik Overnight Recovery Serum
“This hydrating serum contains a powerful blend of three restoring ingredients — vitamin C, bakuchiol and melatonin,” Sarbaziha says. “It works by restoring the skin’s color and elasticity, helping restore skin health long term.”
A pretty penny to drop, rest assured that you’ll be pleased with this luxury-esque formulation. Its three-in-one formula contains that trifecta of ingredients that help brighten (vitamin C), prevent anti-aging (retinol) and soothe the skin (melatonin).
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
“This cream contains azelaic acid, known for its ability to smooth texture, minimize discoloration and reduce inflammation,” Camp says.
Not to mention, for less than $15, how can you pass this helpful aide up?
SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex 1.0
“SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex is targeted for anti-aging, yet the retinol complex works to stimulate collagen production so can reduce acne scarring,” Turner notes.
Additionally, its well-balanced formula — that was specially designed with anti-aging and restorative, collagen-building — is one we find pleasing and worth the investment.
iS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance Plus
“Ingredients like kojic acid, which targets hyperpigmentation, and antioxidants like vitamins A, C and E, which prevent damage from free radicals, are included in this lightweight serum that is marketed to treat a variety of skin concerns, like acne, rosacea, contact dermatitis and insect bites,” Camp explains.
That said, this multi-purpose treatment deserves the real estate in your skincare collection.
Differin Resurfacing Scar Gel
“Differin is a mainstay when it comes to acne treatment, and this particular gel boasts the natural active backuchiol, which, with its retinol-like properties, works to stimulate collagen to work on acne scarring,” Turner says. Coincidentally, the same is said for ISDIN’s Melatonik (listed above), according to Turner.
Another fun fact: Differin has the same active ingredient as the La Roche-Posay product above, adapalene.
Mederma Advanced Scar Gel
“Granted, this particular product is more of a general scar treatment, but can include acne scars as well as surgery scars, and scars from burns or cuts,” Turner says, recommending the Mederma Advanced Scar Gel. “Texture can be tacky unless massaged well into the skin.”
Not to mention, this skin protectant is available at a wealth of retailers online and comes in a travel-friendly tube to treat acne while on the go.
Versed Out of Sight Dark Spot Gel
The Versed Out of Sight Dark Spot Gel is an affordable skincare product for dark spot-correcting and fading of acne scars that contains tranexamic acid, one of the current hero ingredients that fades pigmentation.
“It’s boosted by the ingredients kojic acid, niacinamide and licorice root to attack unwanted pigmentation from multiple mechanisms,” Turner comments. “As a bonus, it has a precision applicator to focus on dark spots.”
An FAQ on Acne Scar Treatments
Ahead, our team of board-certified dermatologists and skincare experts answer common questions about acne scar treatments — including what ingredients to look for, what to avoid and more.
What causes acne scars?
First things first, let’s best understand what causes acne scars before diving into how to help treat and remove them.
According to Chwalek, acne scars occur “when there is significant inflammation damaging deeper tissue and resulting in a depressed scar.”
This prolonged inflammation in acne cysts or nodules is most common, although all forms of acne, “including red papular acne (pimples), pustules, white heads and black heads,” per Turner, can also result in scarring. In short, inflammation in the skin causes damage to the collagen in the skin, leading to scarring. “The longer a person delays treatment, the more the risk of scarring,” Turner adds.
What are the different types of acne scars?
Acne scars are often classified by their morphology. “There are box car scars (which have shallow sharp edged depressions), atrophic scars (which have more rolling depressions), and icepick scars (as the name suggests these often look like a icepick; they tend to be deeper than the others and are more challenging to treat),” Chwalek lists.
Acne can also sometimes cause hypertrophic or keloidal scarring (especially on the chest, back and shoulders). “These are raised firm scars,” she adds.
Sometimes, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or residual redness are often referred to as scarring but these usually fade or resolve with time. In other words, they aren’t true scars.
Ahead, Sarbaziha outlines the different type of acne scars for your reference:
Icepick Scars: Icepick scars are small, deep scars that extend into the dermis or subcutaneous tissue. They are often smaller in diameter (less than 2 mm) and have steep sides. These scars are usually found on the cheeks.
Boxcar Scars: Boxcar scars are depressed scars with well-defined edges and steep, almost vertical walls. They can be shallow (less than 0.5 mm) or deep (greater than 0.5 mm) and are often 1.5 to 4 mm in diameter. These scars may give a “crater-like” appearance on the skin.
Rolling Scars: Rolling scars are characterized by gently sloped edges that merge with normal-appearing skin. They can be circular or linear and are often larger than 4 mm in diameter.
Hypertrophic Scars: Hypertrophic scars are confined within the margins of the original injury. They are characterized by thick and abundant collagen that may be stretched and aligned in the same plane as the epidermis.
Keloid Scars: Keloid scars involve disproportionate creation and deposition of collagen that extends beyond the original injury margins. They are often found on the chest, back, shoulders, and ears. Keloids are persistent and can be painful, itchy, or cause limited range of motion.
Post-inflammatory Erythema: This is not a scar, but a residual pink or red discoloration that occurs after an acne lesion.
Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: This is a black or brown discoloration that remains after an acne lesion. It is more common in individuals with darker skin.
Hypopigmentation: Hypopigmentation is a loss of pigment in the area of a scar, resulting in lighter skin color.
How long does it typically take for acne scars to go away?
“The timeline for acne scar improvement varies depending on factors such as scar type and severity,” Camp explains. “Superficial hyperpigmentation may fade within weeks to months, while rolling and shallow depressed scars might show visible progress over a few months through treatments like micro-needling and chemical peels.”
Deeper scars, such as ice pick and boxcar scars, may take several months to a year for significant improvement, often requiring a combination of treatments. Keloid and hypertrophic scars may also see gradual enhancement over months to a year with specialized therapies, according to Camp.
“Notably, older scars tend to take longer to fade, emphasizing the importance of patience and consistent treatment,” he sums up.
What do acne scars look like for both subtle and more severe (cystic) acne?
Before a scar forms, it is preceded by inflammation or redness. “Cysts are red and usually swollen and left untreated as they heal can cause depressions,” Chwalek details. “It’s not always possible to know which acne lesions are going to cause a scar (usually it’s the more inflammed, swollen lesions that take longer to heal, but sometimes even smaller lesions can cause scarring).”
This is why it is so important to treat the acne early, and to avoid picking. “Picking worsens the inflammation and can cause scarring.”
The different types of acne treatments, explained
Examples of acne scar treatments include creams, serum, toners, peels, body washes and SPF moisturizers, per Camp.
“For severe acne scarring (the kind that leaves depressions on the skin), there is really nothing over the counter that works well,” Chwalek notes, unfortunately bearing not-so-good news. “These scars respond best to a combination of medical treatments to control the acne and lasers, micro-needling or subcision to address the scarring.”
In-office treatments often include laser to address redness (including pulsed dye lasers and IPL), lasers (fractional resurfacing, like fraxel) and micro-needling to address textural irregularities. “If the scars are bound down, dermatologists sometimes perform subcision (this involves taking a needle or needle like device and breaking up the fibrous adhesions underneath the scar.),” she adds. “Occasionally we will use chemical peels and lasers to address pigmentation as well.”
For “scarring” that is more hyperpigmentation (without textural changes), topical products may help, according to Chwalek.
“Using at home serums or medications with ingredients such as retinol, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E and kojic acid can help to fade brown spots that occur where acne once was,” she advises. “It’s important to combine any treatment such as this with daily sunscreen because UV exposure will worsen hyper-pigmenation (known as PIH).
How often should I use an acne scar treatment?
The number of treatments for in-office procedures varies for everyone in terms of personal goals, treatment type and individual response.
However, there’s no clear cut answer when it comes to skincare treatment at home. “It may not have a definitive endpoint, depending on what is being treated,” Turner notes. “For atrophic type acne scarring, we typically don’t think of an endpoint for the use of things like retinoids — as the continuous signal to produce collagen and increase cellular turnover is needed to improve scarring.”
Acne scarring can continue to worsen as we age due to the natural decrease of collagen on top of the original damage to collagen caused by acne, too.
What ingredients to look for in an acne scar treatment, according to experts
Ahead, Sarbaziha lists key ingredients to seek out when shopping for a fresh acne scar treatment:
Salicylic Acid: An exfoliating beta hydroxy acid that helps unclog pores and reduce inflammation.
Benzoyl Peroxide: A powerful antibacterial agent that fights acne-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation.
Retinoids (Retinol, Tretinoin): Vitamin A derivatives that enhance cell turnover, prevent clogged pores, and reduce post-acne hyperpigmentation.
Glycolic Acid: An alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates dead skin cells, promoting smoother skin texture and reducing breakouts.
Niacinamide: Also known as Vitamin B3, it helps regulate oil production, reduces inflammation, and strengthens the skin barrier.
Hyaluronic Acid: A hydrating ingredient that keeps the skin moisturized without clogging pores.
Azelaic Acid: Fights acne-causing bacteria, reduces inflammation, and helps fade post-acne marks.
Sulfur: Helps control excess oil production and has antibacterial properties.
Tea Tree Oil: A natural antiseptic that helps combat acne-causing bacteria.
Zinc: Reduces inflammation and helps control oil production.
What ingredients to avoid in an acne scar treatment, according to experts
Like there are ingredients to scout out, there are also ingredients to avoid.
According to Chwalek, avoid “overly aggressive scrubs and peels” because they “may aggravate inflammation and worsen scars and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
“Avoid products containing high concentrations of alcohol, as they can cause dryness and irritation,” Sarbaziha chimes in. “Additionally, avoid harsh physical exfoliants with large, abrasive particles that can cause micro-tears in the skin.”
It’s crucial to note that fragrances and artificial dyes may also lead to sensitivity and irritation. “For sensitive skin, be wary of strong acids, like high-concentration glycolic acid or salicylic acid, as they can cause excessive peeling and redness,” she adds.
Can I use an acne scar treatment with an acne body wash?
“Body washes that contain alpha or beta-hydroxy acids can be used to treat active acne and prevent the formation of new acne,” Camp notes. “These ingredients can also help treat discoloration associated with old acne.”
Additionally, body washes that contain AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C or niacinamide can be helpful to treat redness and hyperpigmentation of acne scarring — according to Turner — but these ingredients in a body wash format “will be of minimal to no help with atrophic acne scarring.”
