Byrdie: Marula Oil Is the Hydrating, Anti-Inflammatory Solution Derms Love—Here’s Why

by MELANIE RUD CHADWICK

Before, it seemed like most skin types should avoid using any type of oil on their faces unless you had really dry skin. Now there are many articles singing the praises of different skincare oils and which ones work best for every skin type. But if you're looking for an oil that is hydrating, lightweight and can even be used on acne-prone skin, then marula oil needs to be on your radar.

We asked four skincare experts to talk about the standout attributes of marula oil and why it might be the next skincare ingredient you need to immediately add into your skincare routine.

MARULA OIL

TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Emollient

MAIN BENEFITS: Seals-in hydration and softens skin, offers antioxidant protection, has anti-inflammatory effects, has some antibacterial properties.

WHO SHOULD USE IT: Marula oil is good for all skin types, says Haley, though, as with most oils, it's especially choice for those with very dry or cracked skin.

HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT: Marula oil can be used daily.

WORKS WELL WITH: There aren't any known ingredients that it should be used with, though Rabach points out it can be layered over products with active ingredients (retinoids, peptides, antioxidants) to help seal them into skin and boost their efficacy.

DON'T USE WITH: There are currently no known ingredients that will interact negatively with marula oil, although you can always have too much of a good thing. Avoid using any other oils in your routine to try to better maintain balanced skin.

What Is Marula Oil?

Marula oil is a naturally-occurring oil derived from the marula tree (technical name: Sclerocarya birrea) found in sub-Saharan tropical Africa. While the tree is indigenous to Southern Africa, Dr. Turner says its been introduced to other regions of the world, including the Middle East. South Asia, and Oceania.1 The oil can come from either the nuts, seeds, or the fruit of said tree; the nut can be boiled, the seeds pressed, or the fruit processed to extract it. "The extraction process used is called cold pressing, a heatless process where the kernels are crushed to release the oils," Silva adds. "This process is common and considered the gold standard of oil extraction in the industry, as it helps to retain the oil-soluble components naturally found in the part of the plant that is being processed, which could otherwise be damaged or removed if heat were to be applied."

While it might be the new kid on the beauty block here, it's been used for centuries in Africa as a cure-all, points out Dr. Rabach. In its purest state, the oil is a light yellow color with an ever-so-slight nutty scent.

Benefits of Marula Oil for Skin

Like the many (many) other oils out there, yes, marula oil is a great hydrator, but the benefits don't stop there.

  • Seals-in moisture: "Marula oil is predominantly used for moisturization and hydration," says Dr. Rabach.

  • Can be used as an occlusive ingredient: It also has some occlusive tendencies, creating a light layer on top of the skin to seal in moisture. Credit its high levels of fatty acids, namely both oleic and linoleic fatty acids that soften and nourish the skin, explains Dr. Haley. Still, it's very lightweight and won't leave behind a greasy residue.

  • Similar to skin's own oil: A 2015 study found that the specific profile of fatty acids in marula oil was very similar to the oils naturally found in the skin.2

  • Won't clog pores: Haley says that marula oil is non-comedogenic, so you don't have to worry about it clogging pores, as is potentially the case with some other oils, like coconut oil.

  • Offers antioxidant protection: You already know that antioxidants are a must-have ingredient in your quest for complexion perfection, and marula oil is a good source of these. Namely, it's packed with vitamins C and E, as well as a lesser-known antioxidant: "Marula oil contains the phytochemical epicatechin, which has strong antioxidant properties," explains Dr. Haley. And all those antioxidants are choice for helping to stave off the free radicals caused by exposure to UV rays and pollution (which might lead to things like spots and changes in skin texture).

  • Has anti-aging benefits: Collagen and elastin—the proteins essential for healthy, youthful skin—are degraded by certain enzymes, which can be inhibited by antioxidants, says Dr. Haley, including, yep, those in marula oil. In fact, a 2018 study found that the ingredient was effective at inhibiting the enzymes that break down elastin.3 It also contains amino acids, specifically L-arginine and glutamic acid, which also have anti-aging properties. Translation: Marula oil can help ward off fine lines and wrinkles.

  • Works as an anti-inflammatory: Those same fatty acids that make it so hydrating also help combat inflammation and redness, notes Dr. Haley.

  • Enhances skin penetration of other products: Marula oil has a high percentage of oleic acid, which means that it can help penetrate the skin more easily.2

  • Has antimicrobial benefits: Dr. Turner says that a 2022 study shows that marula oil is anti-microbial and has demonstrated abilities to combat the growth of certain bacteria.4

Side Effects of Marula Oil

Generally speaking, there's a very low risk of any type of side effects with marula. Still, as with any type of cosmetic ingredient, natural or not, there's always a risk of an actual allergy, cautions Dr.Rabach. If you're concerned, try any product containing marula oil on a small area on your arm first (as a patch test) before slathering it all over your face. And as always, any allergy concerns should be directed at your dermatologist.

How to Use It

As with most oils, you can either use it straight up or look for it cocktailed with other ingredients in a serum or moisturizer. For the former, seek out pure or virgin marula oil, as it might have a higher concentration of those good-for-your-skin antioxidants than a refined version.

"When incorporating marula oil into your skincare routine, you can apply a few drops to the face once daily or as needed, after cleansing and water-based serums, and before your moisturizer," says Silva. "Combining marula oil with products containing humectants (such as hyaluronic acid or amino acids) can create a symbiotic relationship when it comes to keeping moisture locked in."

Dr. Turner says that depending on your skin type, it can be used as a replacement for a traditional moisturizer, or it can be blended with a richer formula to amplify its moisturizing benefits. "If you’re a truly low-maintenance skincare user, you can use it to replace your entire daily routine save for SPF, but I’d recommend sticking to the incorporation of dedicated antioxidants, retinols and occasional chemical exfoliants."

The Best Products with Marula Oil

The Ordinary 100% Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil $11.00

SHOP

This 100% organic, virgin marula seed oil is both cold-pressed and unrefined. It's a lightweight, hydrating that applies smoothly on skin and it helps visibly restore radiant tone, thanks to a combination of naturally present antioxidants.

 

TRNR Skincare Prebiotic Lipid Nourishing Moisturizer $48.00

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Plant ceramides, squalane and marula combine together to promote long-lasting moisture. This moisturizer also contains a proprietary blend of prebiotic rich yacon root and inulin to help support the skin microbiome and maintain a healthy skin pH balance.


Nécessaire The Hand Cream $25.00

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Great skincare shouldn't just be reserved for your face but should also include your hands too. This hand cream combines ceramides, peptides, niacinamide and marula oil to help relieve dryness, treat loss of volume and recover brittle cuticles for younger looking hands. 

Tower 28 OneLiner Lip Liner $15.00

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Made moisturizing ingredients such as shea butter and marula oil, this versatile pencil creates sleek lines without tugging or dragging. If you're looking to create the ultimate 90s supermodel lip look, then this is the liner for you.

Vacation Chardonnay Oil SPF 30 $22.00

SHOP

A blend of Chardonnay grape seed oil, passion fruit seed oil, marula oil and Hawaii Reef Compliant Act 104 SPF actives combine to give your skin protection from sun, while making sure your skin moisturized and looks buttery smooth.

FAQ

  • What are the benefits of marula oil?

    Marula oil is rich in antioxidants, helps seal in moisture, and has anti-aging benefits, including reducing elastin breakdown.3

  • Is marula oil good for acne-prone skin?

    Studies have shown that marula oil is a non-irritating, safe choice for most, if not all skin types.2

    Komane B, Vermaak I, Summers B, Viljoen A. Safety and efficacy of Sclerocarya birrea (A.rich.) hochst (marula) oil: a clinical perspective. J Ethnopharmacol. 2015;176:327-335. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2015.10.037

  • What is the difference between marula and argan oil?

    Argan oil tends to have a thinner, more lightweight consistency than marula and may be better suited for those with oily, acne-prone skin. Marula oil is high in oleic acid and has a slightly thicker consistency and may be considered best for dry skin types.