Image: Prostock-Studio/Getty Images
By Jenny Jin
Chapped lips are the bane of many people’s existence—myself included. For some, it’s seasonal. Summer turns to fall and then winter, and before you know it, you’re looking for the best winter moisturizer to slather over your face before it becomes red and scaly. And for others, it’s a year-round issue. But why do I need to perpetually reach for a lip balm? Below, I chat with a handful of dermatologists to answer that pesky question: Why are my lips always chapped? Here’s what they said, plus a handful of editor and expert-approved lip balm recs to shop.
What Causes Chapped Lips?
“Though there are many causes for dryness and chapping, the most common reason is cold, dry weather,” says Dr. Gmyrek. Dr. Markowitz adds that our lips have sensitive, exposed mucous membranes that are susceptible to chapping.
“Lips lack sebaceous (oil) and sweat glands, which are essential for producing sebum and sweat to keep skin lubricated and to help maintain a moisture barrier,” Dr. Libby elaborates. “Without these, the lips are limited in their ability to self-hydrate and are more prone to dryness, especially when impacted by environmental factors like low-humidity.”
You may also find yourself doing a little more lip licking than normal in the wintertime—not unusual, Dr. Turner tells me, but definitely a culprit. It’s so common that he says derms call it “lip lickers’ dermatitis.” But what gives?
“Saliva can actually be quite irritating to the skin [when you’re constantly licking your lips, because it] contains digestive enzymes [that] can break down the protective [skin barrier layer] on the lips,” he says.
Less common causes for chapped lips include an allergic reaction to certain lip products or foods, a diet that consists of an excess of salty or spicy foods, a yeast infection, certain medications and sun damage (also known as “actinic chelitis”), which can be precancerous or thyroid disease, Dr. Gmyrek notes.
Persistent dryness can also signal a vitamin deficiency in Vitamins B and C, iron, zinc and/or folic acid. “If you are deficient in these nutrients, you are more likely to present with dry lips, so ensuring that you keep a healthy diet can help prevent dry lips in the future,” says Dr. Markowitz.
The Most Common Symptoms of Chapped Lips
Dryness
Flaking
Scales
Sores
Swelling
Cracks
Bleeding
How to Cure Chapped Lips Fast
“My SOS product is definitely petroleum jelly because that literally fills the cracks [in your lips when they’re bleeding],” Dr. Turner says. “That can give some of the most instant relief, and it also reduces friction.”
However, petroleum jelly and similar products (think ceramides, shea butter) are occlusives, meaning they seal in moisture—but not necessarily provide it. If you’re lacking moisture to begin with, Dr. Libby stresses that you need hydration via humectants before you can “lock” them in. Two easy ones to look for are hyaluronic acid and glycerin—both are in tons of beauty products and will give you a hydration bump.
You may be considering a lip scrub, which is fine. Though, Dr. Markowitz says: “I would caution against too frequent scrubbing and always follow up any exfoliating with a nice layer of [a] sealant moisturizer.” If your lips are a total wreck, you’re better off avoiding it all together, though, as Dr. Libby notes that you’ll be irritating an already damaged skin barrier.
On the other end of the spectrum, if you’re prone to chapped lips, there are certain ingredients you should avoid. Dr. Gmyrek warns against using any lip products that contain lanolin, camphor, eucalyptus, citrus, menthol, mint, cinnamon or excessive fragrances or flavors, as they can cause further irritation.
As for timing of application, Dr. Markowitz recommends paying extra care to using your lip balm or ointment at night before sleeping and before heading outdoors for extended periods (i.e., exercising or winter sports). “Always use extra lip protection when you know you are going to be exposed to wind and cold,” she says.
However strong the temptation, “please do not pick at the dry skin on your lips,” Dr. Markowitz says. As anyone who has ever picked at the dry flakes on their lips knows (so, that makes most of us, right?): You always run the risk of peeling more skin off than intended, which can injure your lips and cause them to look and feel even worse than they did before.
And last but not least, Dr. Markowitz also recommends keeping up with your water intake. “Staying well hydrated is important for dry lips and you can do this by drinking at least eight glasses of water per day,” she says.
The Deal with SPF
Sunscreen is a must for your face…but do you need it on your lips? The answer from the dermatologists is a resounding yes—and you need it year-round.
“It's a must to protect skin from the damaging effects of UV radiation. As a skin cancer surgeon, I treat numerous skin cancers on the lips and counsel patients that the lips are highly vulnerable to the sun, especially the lower lip, which is at risk for actinic damage and is a common site for squamous cell carcinoma,” Dr. Libby says.
When it comes to choosing a lip balm with SPF, aim for 30 SPF or higher and a mineral base.
“Many of these chemical-based [sunscreens] break down by design, but that increases the heat in the area when they break down,” Dr. Turner explains. “These byproducts can be more irritating on the lip, because [it doesn’t have] the toughness and the thickness of the normal epidermis.”
6 Editor and Expert-Approved Lip Balms to Shop
1. Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask
The Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask is a PureWow editor and reader favorite—in addition to being a viral sensation. It also has Dr. Turner’s stamp of approval for his patients wanting a coconut-oil based formula. Other hydrating ingredients include shea butter, the brand’s Berry Fruit Complex and Murumuru seed oil. “While solid in appearance, the lip mask melts on your lips once you put it on,” writes PureWow Beauty and Cultures Editor Chelsea Candelario. “It offers intense moisture all through the night, but doesn’t feel overly tacky or greasy.”
2. ESW Beauty Smoothie Lip Treatment
I’ve been using ESW Beauty’s Smoothie Lip Treatment for a few months and love the rich hyaluronic acid and shea butter formula. White pitaya provides antioxidants that hydrate and help to soothe sunburns, while coconut adds healthy fats and vitamin E for moisture. I like putting it on before bed and waking up to lipstick-ready lips, but it can also be applied in the daytime for both hydration and a super glossy, easy look.
3. La Roche Posay Nutritic Lip Balm
Dr. Turner also recommended La Roche Posay’s Nutritic lip balm, calling out the ceramides (maintains skin barrier), shea butter (soothing) and glycerin (humectant) as a great formulation he’s eager to try. While $17 for a lip balm isn’t the cheapest option, I can attest that this was the first balm I reached for when I had an awful flare-up because it was the only thing my lips would tolerate.
4. Farmacy Lip Smoothie
When it comes to lip balm flavors, I think Farmacy is definitely a winner. I’ve tried both the mango and pear kiwi flavors, which are *divine*. (There’s apple, too.) Each flavor has its hero ingredients (mango seed butter, pear seed extract, apple extract) plus peptides (plump and smooth) and vitamin C (for fine lines). I love that there’s also a great slip to it, so it feels more like a gloss (with the sheen), but still provides great hydration that leaves my lips smooth by morning.
5. Alpyn Beauty Willow & Sweet Agave Lip Mask
If you’re looking for a rich, heavy balm, I can’t recommend Alpyn Beauty enough. The brand was created by a Jackson Hole, Wyoming resident to provide products that would hold up to the dry mountain air. If it works for the mountain dwellers, it works for me. I only use this when I need SOS intervention. Ingredients include hyaluronic acid and sweet agave extract for moisture, white willow bark to smooth and wild chokeberry and vitamin E for an antioxidant boost.
6. Aquaphor Lip Repair
Dr. Turner tells me Aquaphor is his go-to, and it’s mine as well. (Not to mention the fact that Olivia Rodrigo also stans the brand.) Why does it work? Though it’s not super fancy, one of the key ingredients is glycerin (AKA my favorite humectant), which works to soothe and hydrate the skin. In addition to shea butter, castor seed oil, beeswax and petrolatum round out this robust little number that comes in at $5. It’s my top pick in every season, and especially when my lips are feeling chapped.
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