By Mary Honkus
Actives like retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids dominate skin care conversations, while ultra-hydrating ingredients are often left on the sidelines. Think about it: Do you know anything about or have you even heard of squalane? While under the radar, squalane is the cornerstone of many moisturizers and serums due to its ability to reinforce the skin barrier, and although it may not be as buzzy as hyaluronic acid, the ingredient is a worthy addition to your routine if you’re looking to soften and strengthen your complexion.
What’s the difference between squalane and squalene?
Before diving into the specifics of squalane, it’s important to know the difference between it and another popular compound, squalene (with an e). “Both ingredients are moisturizing agents and function similarly, but they are different,” says Dr. Ryan Turner, board-certified dermatologist and founder of TRNR Skin. “Squalene is found in plants, animals (famously, shark liver) and our own bodies produce it. However, it is also notoriously unstable making it unsuitable for use in skin care products as it can rapidly degrade,” he explains. “Squalane is derived from squalene — the latter ingredient gets hydrogenated, meaning squalene was converted from an unsaturated to a saturated oil by the addition of hydrogens. Squalane is much more stable and therefore the better choice for use in skin care.”
Benefits of squalane
1. Moisturizing
Ron Robinson, a cosmetic chemist and the founder of BeautyStat, explains that squalane is an emollient- and antioxidant-rich lipid that mimics the skin’s own natural oils, allowing it to intensely moisturize all skin types.
2. Supports the skin barrier
“Lipids like squalane are critical for proper skin function,” Turner says. “These lipids play an important role in our skin — they act like the grout between the bricks of our skin cells, preventing water loss and keeping skin moisturized while blocking external irritants from getting through the barrier. Without lipids like squalane, you’re at risk of dry, sensitive, irritated skin.” He adds that introducing squalane to your routine can greatly reinforce the skin barrier to keep it comfortable and balanced, something that’s especially necessary during the dry winter months.
3. Antioxidant protection
The benefits of the ingredient don’t end there, though. “Additionally, squalane has antioxidant properties, helping to protect your skin against free radical damage emitted by environmental pollution and UV — free radical damage causes premature aging,” Turner tacks on.
Who should use squalane?
While some skin care ingredients aren’t suitable for all skin types, Turner assures that squalane is something that everyone can benefit from. “Though it is an oil, it can be safely used by acne-prone skin because it is biomimetic, meaning it functions similarly to your skin’s natural sebum, and is non-comedogenic.”
It’s a common misconception that oily skin types don’t need a moisturizer — let alone an additional face oil — in their routine, but board-certified dermatologist Dr. Kiran Mian explains that “without enough moisture, oil glands often go into overdrive, producing more oil. That’s why adding an emollient, like squalane, to your skincare routine can help balance the skin.”
Best squalane skin care
Regardless of your skin type, integrating squalane into your regimen can lead to a softer, more supple and balanced complexion. Below you’ll find expert-recommended squalane moisturizers, serums, oils, cleansers and more.
Biossance 100% Sugarcane Squalane Oil
“If you’re looking to try squalane in its purest form, this product from Biossance is a nice pick,” Turner says. “Squalane is the star of this line’s products, but this formula contains nothing but 100% squalane oil, making it ideal for those who have very reactive skin. Squalane is very gentle, and having it in a product solo means you can enjoy the ingredient’s nourishing and skin-balancing benefits without the risk of a reaction caused by any other ingredient.”
Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream
Squalane has been a signature ingredient in Kiehl’s products for decades, and the Ultra Facial Cream may just be the most well-known (and most loved) formula from the line. It's one of associate beauty editor Sophie Shaw's all-time favorite products and our pick for best moisturizer for combination skin. It strengthens the skin’s moisture barrier, making it softer and smoother both instantly and over time. Plus, because it’s incredibly gentle, Mian regularly recommends this to her patients with sensitive skin.
Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer
“I’m a big fan of Paula’s Choice products because they are extremely well-formulated,” shares Turner. “This moisturizer in particular not only includes squalane, but five different ceramides, shea butter, urea and cholesterol to provide intensive nourishment to the skin. It also contains adenosine and palmitoyl tripeptide-5, which offer wrinkle-smoothing and skin-firming benefits, respectively.”
CeraVe Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser
While it may be tempting to load up on squalane-infused skin care to give your skin a hydrating boost, Mian suggests sticking to one or two products in your routine — and a favorite of hers is this unique oil-to-foam cleanser. “It deeply cleanses while supplementing the skin with hydrating, barrier-restoring ingredients like squalane and ceramides,” she says.
Dieux Air Angel Hydrating Gel Cream
Dieux is quickly becoming a cult-favorite brand, and its newest velvety jelly moisturizer has already garnered tons of fans, including Robinson. Along with powerhouse hydrators like glycerin and amino acids, he says this also contains squalane to help hydrate oily skin types without leaving them looking shiny or greasy.
Youth to the People Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Night Cream + Mask
When my skin is suffering from a serious case of the winter blues (i.e., excessive dryness and flakiness), this nourishing overnight mask always comes to the rescue. Along with a rich mix of squalane and hyaluronic acid to quench my skin’s thirst, this rich cream is also formulated with vitamin C and a mix of super berries to enhance radiance.
Rhode Barrier Restore Cream
This moisturizer from Hailey Bieber’s skin care line comes highly recommended from both Robinson and Mian due to the fact that it’s an exemplary nonirritating formula for sensitive skin. In fact, it’s one of Mian’s favorite squalane-infused products. “It features niacinamide, which is anti-inflammatory, along with nourishing shea butter, squalane, and peptides for skin plumping and rejuvenation,” she says.
Summer Fridays Sheer Skin Tint
As more formulas bridge the gap between makeup and skin care, you can expect to see squalane as the star ingredient in many complexion products. Leading the pack is this tinted moisturizer from Summer Fridays. “This is a fabulous makeup-skin care hybrid!” says Turner. “It comes in a range of 12 diverse shades that offer light, radiant coverage and features soothing centella asiatica, hydrating hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and nourishing squalane, vitamin E and other plant oils.”
The Outset Nourishing Squalane Daily Moisturizer
This lightweight no-frills moisturizer from Scarlett Johansson’s beauty brand doesn’t skimp on hydration, with a mix of squalane, avocado oil and plum oil. Simply apply two pumps across your face for a full 24 hours of moisture and watch as redness diminishes and your skin texture smooths out with continued use.
First Aid Beauty Retinol Eye Cream with Squalane + Ceramides
Retinol may be a powerhouse anti-aging ingredient, but it can also cause sensitivity and irritation. Luckily, this sensitive skin-friendly eye cream pairs the active with squalane and ceramides to create a protective hydrating cushion for the delicate eye area, so you can reap the benefits without experiencing any dryness or redness.
Deinde Moisture-Locking Face Stick
I’m one of those people who have an entire in-flight skin care routine, and one of the reasons I look so dewy after a red-eye is because of this stick. The solid format makes it TSA-friendly, and it’s incredibly easy to glide the squalane and ceramide-infused stick across my complexion to lock in moisture and prevent the dry cabin air from wreaking havoc on my skin.
EltaMD UV Restore Broad Spectrum SPF 40
Not your grandma’s goopy, heavy sunscreen, this formula from EltaMD feels more like a lightweight moisturizer that melts into skin. The multitasking mineral SPF includes plant-derived squalane, ginger root and antioxidants to improve skin tone, texture and radiance for an all-in-one product that may just replace your face cream altogether.
Indie Lee 100% Squalane Facial Oil
Rather than sitting on top of the skin, this 100% pure squalane oil quickly absorbs into your complexion for a burst of moisture. Suitable for all skin types — including oily! — it can be used on its own to really hydrate skin or mixed with your favorite foundation for a radiance boost.
Naturium Barrier Bounce
Despite having a light oil-serum texture, this packs some major hydration into the skin — so much that oily skin types might not even need to follow up with a moisturizer. A potent combination of 5% squalane and 2% urea — plus a ceramide complex — plumps and intensely hydrates the skin while leaving behind a gorgeous radiance for that golden-hour glow that lasts all day.
