By: Jessica Fields
Botanical oils can play a big role in your skin-care routine. Whether derived from plants, fruits or herbs, many are loaded with benefits for improving the health and appearance of your skin. While there are many buzzy oils, prickly pear oil has become one of the most talked-about in the beauty industry. You may be familiar with prickly pear’s refreshing, fruity flavor, but the peculiar fruit is also a powerhouse ingredient for supple, youthful skin. “Studies show that prickly pear oil offers numerous benefits to the skin, courtesy of a primary component of prickly pear oil, linoleic acid,” says New York dermatologist and co-founder of TRNR Skin, Ryan Turner, MD.
According to Hallie Font, director of aesthetics at Hi, skin, prickly pear oil is bursting with antioxidant properties to protect the skin from damaging free radicals, sunlight and other environmental stressors. However, when it comes to oils from somewhat uncommon sources, navigating their use can become a mystery. To set the record straight on this trendy oil, we tapped four industry experts, ranging from dermatologists to aestheticians. Below, they share everything to know about prickly pear oil, including how to incorporate it into your routine, its benefits, and the top products to try.
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Featured experts
Ryan Turner, MD is a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of TRNR Skin based in New York
Hallie Font is the director of aesthetics at Hi, skin
Dr. Jodi Logerfo is a a family nurse practitioner certified in family medicine and dermatology based in New York
Sarah Hicken is the education director for VOESH skincare
What is prickly pear oil?
Before diving deep into the skin-care advantages of prickly pear oil, let’s get into the basics. Contrary to its name, it’s actually a seed oil. It’s “extracted from the seeds of the fruit of the prickly pear, a cactus plant native to the Americas with particular abundance in Mexico,” says Dr. Turner. He explains that the extraction process can occur in various ways, including cold press, distillation and with the aid of solvents.
What are the benefits of prickly pear oil?
Like many seed oils, prickly pear has antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. But, as Font notes, it has become increasingly popular in skin care due to its hydrating, soothing and brightening properties. Dr. Turner explains that these benefits are largely due to an omega-6 fatty acid called linoleic acid. “Essential fatty acids, like linoleic acid, are crucial to your health, but the body cannot make them. When topically applied, it can support the skin barrier, promoting moisture retention to help skin look smoother and firmer and keep it hydrated for longer periods,” he says. Since prickly pear oil is rich in linoleic acid, it can provide all of these benefits while protecting fibroblasts, the cells responsible for making collagen, from UV radiation-induced damage.
One of the most buzzy benefits of the oil is its skin-tightening abilities. Can this unusual oil really snatch your skin back to shape? As with many skin-care ingredients, the answer is simple and complex. “The short answer is yes, prickly pear oil can help tighten the skin because of its antioxidant, fatty acid and vitamin content,” says Sarah Hicken, education director for VOESH skincare. However, it’s important to note that it simply aids in tightening. “I wouldn’t characterize prickly pear oil as a skin-tightening ingredient, but thanks to potent antioxidants and ingredients like retinol, which stimulate collagen production, it can help firm the skin over time,” says Dr. Turner.
Why is prickly pear oil so expensive?
We all know skin care can get pricy, and prickly pear oil doesn’t always come cheap. Dr. Turner shares that prickly pear seeds have a low oil content compared to other oils commonly used in beauty products, often driving up the price. According to Font, each seed contains only a tiny amount of oil, making it an expensive commodity. Then there’s the extraction method, which is also time-consuming and labor-intensive and can cause the oil to be more expensive.
Can you make your own prickly pear oil?
“Making prickly pear oil at home is challenging because it requires a significant amount of seeds and specialized equipment to extract the oil,” says Font. While we’re not against DIY beauty, prickly pear oil isn’t exactly at the top of the list. Put simply, “It would be a lot of work. Not only would you have to cold-press the seeds, but you’d need an abundance of them to produce a small amount of oil,” says New York family nurse practitioner certified in family medicine and dermatology Dr. Jodi Logerfo.
How to incorporate prickly pear oil into your routine
Adding a new oil to your existing routine can be scary. There’s always a concern about clogged pores and breakouts, but Dr. Turner says that prickly pear oil is known to be non-comedogenic, so it can even be used by those prone to acne. It’s “actually quite lightweight, fast-absorbing and non-greasy, which means attention should be paid if applying after a rich moisturizer,” he says. If you’re using a face oil, he recommends applying a diluted oil after your serums, as it may not easily penetrate the thick layer of cream to deliver its maximum benefits. Hicken adds that you can also mix a bit of it into your moisturizer to enhance absorption.
However, as an ingredient in skin-care products, it can be affordable and easy to find. “Prickly pear oil is present in many skin-care products, particularly serums, face oils and moisturizers,” says Font. Keep reading to discover the top products to add to your skin-care routine.
Products to try
1 / 7
Berlin Skin Prickly Pear Oil ($98)
This nourishing oil blend deeply hydrates and soothes, thanks to its star ingredient. “The vitamin K content in this oil improves skin tone, slows premature aging and softens fine lines,” says Font.
2 / 7
Fresh Lotus AHA Resurfacing Gentle Serum ($68)
This serum harnesses the power of prickly pear extract to smooth and even skin tone. Despite including glycolic and citric acids, it is gentle on the skin and has a creamy consistency that melts into the skin like a dream.
3 / 7
Youth To The People Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Oil ($49)
Packed with superfruits and botanical oils, this serum delivers tenfold benefits for hydrating the skin and providing a luminous glow.
4 / 7
Typology Paris Firming Night Mask with Organic Prickly Pear Oil ($47)
Add this mask to your evening routine to nourish and moisturize your skin. It’s designed to work with your natural cell cycle and help boost collagen production as you sleep.
5 / 7
Bubble Skincare First Class Oil Cleanser ($17)
In this silky oil cleanser, prickly pear oil works with rosehip and sunflower seed oil to break down makeup and cleanse the skin without stripping it dry.
6 / 7
Summer Fridays Heavenly Sixteen All-In-One Face Oil ($55)
A unique blend of 16 different oils, this all-in-one product is a masterclass in balance. The mixture conditions, plumps, restores and moisturizes, leaving your skin supple and soft.
7 / 7
Fenty Beauty by Rihanna Eaze Drop’lit All-Over Glow Enhancer ($34)
The benefits of prickly pear aren’t limited to just skin-care products. Fenty’s Glow Enhancer uses the ingredient to provide long-lasting hydration.
